September 2006
IX Things I’ve Learned in Rome
Saturday, September 30, 2006
10:44PM
1. Flush the toilet with the button on the wall. You’ll find it at eye level behind the towels after swearing for about ten minutes. You’ll figure out how to make it work ten minutes after that.
2. Don’t wash your hands in that little sink next to the toilet.
3. I never knew crossing the street could be so exhilarating. Basically it works like this. No one will ever stop their car, bus, motorcycle, etc. for you. So you jump out in front of them. No, really. Wheee!!! Try it with children!
4. God hates tripods. Got one? Don’t bring it to the Vatican. I’ve run in to the same problem at Temple Square in Salt Lake City. Posers. Their reasoning is that they don’t want professional photographers in without permission.
Well, oooooookay, we’ll just ignore the fact that professional photographers have cameras with lenses so fast, they don’t need tripods. For that matter, we’ll just ignore the fact that I’m working in Italy right now as a PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHER and I’m getting pretty damn good pictures inside the Vaticanwithout my tripod, thank you very much.
5. Rum and chocolate gelato…mmm.
6. Rigatoni al la Arabianna…mmm…with the house red…mmm…finished off with a cappuccino. MMMM!!! Sweet Jeebus, I’ve never tasted red sauce like that before!
L'Archetto di Cabour. A great place for lunch, worth the walk.
By the way, I’d agree with anyone who says you need to get away from the tourist attractions to find good food and fair prices. Oh, and on the off chance you speak Italian, please forgive my spelling.
7. Furthermore, if you don’t speak Italian, the GO TO HELL you FUCKING YANKEE PIG!!! No, no, actually it’s ok. There are tons of English-speakers here, and for the most part everyone has been very kind. Where English hasn’t worked, my Spanish has come in quite handy. For example, I didn’t know the word for “check” as in “check, please.” As it turns out, “Señor, deme la cuenta, por favor,” works just fine.
On top of that, I actually had someone ask me for directions to the coliseum in Spanish yesterday. It was cool to actually understand and be able to help. I’m a little confused why they thought this cracker looked like he’d be the one to ask in Spanish, though.
8. Near the end of a long walk away from the center of town, I met a man named Manuel Alberto Roldán Roboz. He’s an attorney from Costa Rica. He thought I was a journalist because of my camera. That, and the marching communists (more on that later). We had a pretty decent chat about our trips, and he had some good advice for me:
- “Don’t ever travel alone.” Sadly, I didn’t have the presence of mind to ask him why he was traveling alone.
- “Be careful with your bag. And that camera. That’s a very nice camera. Are you a journalist?”
- “Watch out for the cops here. One of them hit me on the back of the head with a nightstick. Knocked me right out.” Sounds to me like he should have looked out for the nightstick.
9. Speaking of cops, there sure were a lot of them around. Maybe this is why:
Whatever. Hammer and sickle is sooo late 1800s.
They should change it to the keyboard and mouse.
You know those wascawy communists. Try as they might, history just hasn’t shown peaceful protest to be one of their strong points. They seemed pretty upset about Iraq and Palestine. Because I’m part stupid, I just had to get a few pictures.
I think one of these guys didn't want his picture taken.
Then I got my American ass back into the center of town, where an hour later, the “parade” slowly made its way down the hill behind dozens of cops towards the coliseum. I caught the subway (that’s the ninth thing I learned)
Rome's underground. No tripods allowed here, either.
That or I was standing too close to the edge.
and rode the five miles back out of the city center to where our hotel shuttle dropped everyone off earlier. You see, knowing about the protests, he wouldn’t drop us off downtown. Being crazed for entertainment, we went anyway.
Call me crazy, but I think there are maybe one hundred Americans that will ever even know about the protest. Thirty of them read this blog. Nice work, guys. I know how it feels to go unnoticed. At least you deserve it.
See the pictures from Friday and Saturday.
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Excuse number When in Rome…
Thursday, September 28, 2006
5:04PM
OK, I didn't actually see any Romans taking pictures, but it's my first night here, and I couldn't help myself.
See the rest of today's pictures here.
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Fishing for an Answer
Sunday, September 24, 2006
6:25AM
I’m driving home from work again in heavy rush hour traffic.
I’m forty-five minutes into a commute that should take ten minutes
on the open road. I stop for the third time at the same light and wonder
if I’ll ever get through.
This time, I notice that the car in front of me is sporting the crude,
shiny outline of a fish. It’s exactly like all the others I’ve
seen at least a million times before. For a moment I smile as I muse
over the irony of evolution playing out on the backs of cars. It’s
getting late and my thoughts turn to dinner.
My menu starts out simply enough with a Jesus fish. Now, I like seafood
as much as the next guy, but you’ve got to admit—there’s
something really fishy about all this trout worship. There isn’t
much time to think about it, though. Faster than I can work out whether
a fumé blanc or chardonnay goes better with tilapia, my would-be dinner
has sprouted legs and is jumping off my plate.
Not to be outdone, a bigger, angrier Jesus fish breaks into the room.
It violently attacks and begins to devour my former and short-lived
pet, Darwin. I’ll miss him, but not for long. You see, nature
sometimes has amusing ways of working these things out.
Before he can finish, an even bigger, hornier Darwin fish races onto
the scene and mounts the Jesus fish from behind. He vigorously pumps
his new “friend” with all the gleeful enthusiasm and passion
of a hyperactive Chihuahua on Spanish fly. All you need is love, baby.
Love is all you need. Or is it?
About this time, a huge mass of spaghetti
and meatballs with eyes floats gracefully into the room and descends
upon them all. He stops in front of me, extends his noodly appendage
and gently touches my forehead. I’d like to think that this settles
it, but I’ve been around long enough to have my doubts. In fact,
I’d like to do my part to perpetuate the problem:
How long now until the zealots trash my car?
Now, I’m not much for tall tales or trusting unverified rumors,
but some people believe in this guy named Moses who apparently led his
enslaved people out of Egypt a few thousand years ago. He started by
asking nicely for his freedom, but eventually his arguments grew to
a violent onslaught of umm…(cough)…biblical proportions.
In spite of all the flash and wow of plagues and fire from the sky,
it’s the opening act that intrigues me. You see, early one evening
at the local pub, Moses and a buddy of his were commiserating with each
other about their lousy jobs at the brick factory. After a couple (ok,
several) beers the mood started to lighten somewhat. Aaron borrowed
Moses’ staff to show him a magic trick he’d been practicing
at home in his spare time.
You probably know the trick already. After Aaron threw the staff to
the ground, Moses’ tired eyes lit up. “Dude! I think
we could totally use this to get out of work tomorrow!” They laughed
and slapped each other on the back as they finished another round. Next
stop: Pharaoh’s house.
“Let my…(hic)…people go!” On cue, Aaron threw
down Moses’ staff. Ok, actually having just come from the pub
he dropped it, but he still had enough of his wits about him
to sneak in his trick. After a bright flash and smoke, the staff was
gone and a large snake appeared in its place.
Pharaoh let out a long sigh. The court magician groaned and rolled
his eyes. In an incredible show of patience for those days, neither
of them was killed on the spot. Instead, the magician, (I think his
name was Penn),
threw his staff to the ground to show Moses and Aaron that he
too knew the oldest, lamest magic trick in Egypt. Now, what most of
you don’t know is that the story actually ends here.
Or at least it should have. The Bible says that Aaron’s
snake went cannibal and devoured the magician’s two snakes. What
the??? Look, I’m no biblical scholar, but that last part just
smacks of historical tomfoolery. I can totally see a priest in the early
Catholic Church telling his kind but illiterate congregation the story
right up to Aaron’s first trick. “God is magic!” he
proclaims to his awestruck audience. “And you will learn to obey
him unless you want him turning your stuff into snakes. AMEN.”
The priest couldn’t be happier with himself. His story is entertaining
and effective. The locals are just eating it up. Attendance is up, and
most importantly, so are donations. That is until some smart ass shows
up and makes his own live snake from a stick in front of the entire
congregation and says, “big deal.”
Seeing his livelihood threatened, the priest thinks, “Well, I
have the Bible and you morons can’t read it. I’ll fix this!”
“My dear brethren and sisters, I’d like you all to know
that I’ve been holding out on you. There’s more to the story
(because I’m about to add it) that I have saved until a time when
I thought you’d need it.”
“First, it is true that magicians can make snakes appear from
sticks. After all, Pharaoh had a magician, and that’s exactly
what he did! But as we read further in this chapter, we find that God’s
snake ate the Pharaoh’s up.”
“Oooooooh…”
“And he gave them umm…lice! Yes, that’s it.
Lice!”
“Huh?”
“And a plague of grasshoppers and frogs!”
“Well that doesn’t sound so bad…I like frogs.”
“And nasty boils and gnats and flies and hail!”
“But weren’t all of those things happening already?”
“THAT’S IT!!! Do you know what happened next? He
killed all the cattle and then he made it real dark so he could sneak
into the houses and kill each and every firstborn Egyptian male as they
slept! That’s right—every one of them. And if you don’t
shut the FUCK up, that’s exactly what’s going to
happen to you!”
Only it didn’t.
The story of Moses seems such a blatant allegory of religion’s
institutionalized contempt for science that I’m surprised I didn’t
recognize it earlier. Looking back on history, I have yet to find a
single instance in which science has lost an argument to religion. But
we have plenty of examples of it happening the other way around.
For ages, different faiths have sold their mystical view of the world
around us, how they thought it worked and what their god wanted us to
believe about it. When they were wrong, they were very, very
wrong; but when they were right, it was science. If you didn’t
get executed for being right, well, that was just plain lucky.
Nowadays you don’t see a lot of people trying to turn staffs
into snakes, but I’ll be damned if we haven’t done our best
to recreate the plagues. Our worst plague by far is self-imposed ignorance.
I’m afraid for what will happen to the world if we don’t
find a way to get it in check. There are no guarantees, but I hope that
history will someday show us that the person with better ideas is always
the biggest fish.
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Shut Up and Smell the Roses
Sunday, September 17, 2006
10:30PM
Headphones at work, car stereo, people, my kid, my wife, music at home,
background music at the restaurant and in the grocery store. Hell, I’m
even listening to my
favorite blues podcast as I write this. The noise is so constant
and unrelenting, there doesn’t seem to be anywhere to hide. Am
I trying to drown something out, or is this seemingly inescapable cacophony
of attention-grabbers just an unintended consequence of something else?
Sometimes when I’m driving to work, I turn on the radio so habitually
it’s almost like an addiction. When I turn it off, the silence
builds with a pressure that feels like it might crush me. At first I
struggle successfully against the urge to turn it back on. Twenty seconds
later, I’m back at it again; switching madly through the commercials
and lame music as if it were my last true shot at happiness in life.
Am I really that afraid to be alone with my thoughts for even just thirty
seconds? I turn the radio off.
It’s back on again, and this time I don’t even remember
doing it. Annoyed, I hit the switch. This time I’ll force myself
to leave the damn thing off until I get to work—just to see if
I still can. There’s nothing I want to listen to anyhow. At first
it’s uncomfortable, but I stick with it. After a while, something
starts to happen.
It starts as a trickle, and then little by little the flow of my own
ideas grows to a torrent. New ways of looking at things and ideas for
my writing seem to be as easy to grab as food from the fridge. I need
paper—a recorder, anything. I’ve got to get these ideas
down before I forget!
As the cool air from the vents in my car blasts me in the face, I realize
the air, like my ideas, has become stale. I can breathe, but it’s
canned. There’s nothing invigorating about it. I roll down the
windows and open the sunroof. It’s a little uncomfortable at first,
but then the sounds and smells from outside flood the car. This is life!
I think…
If it is life, I’ve been living it out in a series of
moving and stationary holding cells. I’ve been serving out a voluntary
sentence for no crime at all. As I move from house to car to office,
it’s as though I’ve gone out of my way to avoid any direct
contact with the outside world.
As I step out of the car in front of the building where I work, the
full fragrant air from the flowers in the fields around me fills my
lungs, and I feel, if only for a moment, like a blind person who has
been given thirty seconds to experience sight. I suck in as much as
I can, and pass yet again through the double doors into a world of flavorless,
bland, air-conditioned comfort.
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So Happy Together
Saturday, September 16, 2006
12:50PM
Heidi and I have a screwy system of checks and balances. I write the
checks, and she balances. Right. I know I’m not fooling
anyone. She writes the checks, too.
Once in a while, my beloved Minister of Finance cedes her mighty power
to me and the results are…well…predictable. To make
it short, I’m happy to announce that the purple
goddess of love and blues doesn’t have to play alone anymore.
Now you know why the salespeople at
Guitar Center smile when they see me.
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Opening a Can of Smart-Ass
Friday, September 8, 2006
10:05PM
I love mixing words. Add a letter here, a letter there…change
the order around and I guarantee you, the new sentence is almost always
more interesting than what you started out with. I think it might be
a disorder—sort of an elective dyslexia.
You’ll see what I mean if you ever get to know me. It doesn’t
matter what we’re talking about. As quickly as you can speak,
my devious little mind will be looking for clever or sick (preferably
sick) ways to twist your words for my own personal amusement.
My sister-in-law has discussed this with my wife on more than a single
occasion. She says I’m funny, but I’m not sure she means
that in any positive way. I’ll grant her that—but I’m
not going to quit. It’s just too much fun.
Case in point: Just a few days ago, Heidi called to me from across
the house to help her with something.
“Honey-poo?”
“Poo-honey???”
“Eeeew! Doug, that’s disgusting! GOD! Why do I keep
falling for that?”
You see? Beautiful! It’s simple, easy to do and you don’t
even need a picture. Hell, whatever your mind conjures up after hearing
“poo-honey” has got to be worse than any image I could show
you. You really should try it out.
Just be careful. Less intelligent people might not get it. In fact,
they might even take it personally. Ages ago, I worked a very short
stint as a car salesman in Salt Lake City. One night, I was playing
around with the words of one of the other salesmen on my shift. He’d
been a backhoe operator in his previous job, which meant that he wasn’t
necessarily smarter than dirt; he just got to push it around all day.
He was the dirt’s manager.
Up to my usual antics, he said something and I made some lame attempt
at a joke in response. Before I even knew what was happening, this asshole
told me that I’d better knock it off or he’d beat the living
shit out of me. I thought he was kidding. So I told him that it wouldn’t
be necessary, as none of my shit was alive so far as I knew. Funny how
that didn’t really calm him down…
He was about forty years old and easily twice my size. From the sound
of things he was more than a few sales short upstairs of his full quota.
He sat up in his chair with murder in his eyes and said, “I’m
serious. You wanna take this outside?”
Now, some say the pen is mightier than the sword, but have you ever
tried to block a punch with a Bic
Cristal? Not me. I backed down and Mr. Cro-Magnon (Dickus-Headum
Asshaticus) let me keep my teeth. Somehow, I’m okay with that.
It seemed like a fair trade for my pride.
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Reason Excuse 424 Why I Haven't Been Posting Much
Saturday, September 2, 2006
3:00PM
I’ll bet some of you are wondering why I haven’t been posting.
I think this photo will help clear things up:
Ok, ok. I'll pose with the models. If I have to.
That’s right. I’ve been working.
Actually, it’s true. I spent the last week at the Ritz-Carlton
on Amelia Island, Florida. I was there as the photographer for a big
tech conference. It was all sixteen to eighteen hour days and a lot
of hard work, but I got a lot of great shots and truly enjoyed myself.
The Ritz-Carlton at Amelia Island, Florida. Photo by
me.
Some of us were just born to suffer. ;)
As far as my work on the site goes, don't despair! I've been working
on chapter two of my
book, and have several posts queued up. Now that I'm back home,
I hope I'll be able to get them up soon.
Doug
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